24-25 Gt Windmill Street, W1

Our congratulations to Blacklock for winning the Observer Food Monthly award for the best Sunday lunch (October 2016).

What a difference a year and a half makes: Blacklock is now a Soho Sunday institution, with 300-plus sitting down to a proper roast dinner each week. “The dream was to do a roast like you get at home,” says Ker, 31. “Nothing beats your mum’s Sunday dinner, so we aim to be the next best thing.” Ker is ex-Hawksmoor, so it almost goes without saying that this is a slick operation.

The Sunday menu is gratifyingly to the point, and served family-style: just a couple of starters (bone marrow on sourdough, maybe, or roast scallops), followed by a choice of roast beef, pork or lamb (or a daunting plateful of all three), with all the traditional roast spud, carrot, greens, Yorkshire and gravy trimmings. There’s a touch of theatre about it, too, with the joints slow-roasted whole over open coals, which is perhaps not the way home cooks do it. For pudding: “It’s cheesecake.” Portion control is similar to Mum’s, too – you won’t be wanting an evening meal after this little lot.

It’s also one of the best Sunday deals in town: that vast mixed platter with sides is £20 all-in. “It’s all about value,” Ker says. “We do cocktails from a fiver, we use top-quality meat at a middle-end price point [all Blacklock’s carcasses come from one of the godfathers of British butchery, Philip Warren in north Cornwall], and extra sides are £4 a pop.”